NEW COURSE
At Noé, Robert Gadsby explores
new avenues of dining
THE PERIPATETIC ROBERT GADSBY, WHO HAS SEEMINGLY
cooked in most of the top kitchens in town, has once again put down
roots andd his own place. He’s partnered with the Omni Los
Angeles Hotel at California Plaza in Noé, his latest venture.
“Fooditecture” was the term Gadsby used to describe the architectural
fashion in which he often sculpted his innovative creations when he first
appeared on the Los Angeles dining scene, first with Thomas Keller at
Checkers, then later at Xiomara, The Olive, and Luna Park.
This time around, the food seems simpler in conception,
while most of the design has gone into the space. In the logo,
the Eiffel Tower casts a shadow that becomes the accent on
Noé, and the word Noé is used repeatedly in cutouts to create
the shape of that famous Parisian tower in backlit wood panels
at the rear of the restaurant. Designer Curtis Schnell, who more
often can be found creating a look for television programs, has
given the space an appealing design. Tabletop candles and mini
lights tucked in the ceiling cast a soft, romantic glow, while cases
constructed from wood and glass and filled with bottles of wine
separate the front and back rooms.
Gadsby divides the menu into three sections, first, second, and
main courses, and some diners will almost certainly eschew the last
category for several selections from the first two. Gadsby, who
labels his style here Progressive American cuisine, also offers tasting
menus in six and nine courses, and that’s almost certainly the
best way to dine here, especially on a first visit.
The small menu is a work in progress, as Noé had justd
at the time of my visit, and Gadsby likes to change his menus seasonally
anyway. But don’t miss the butternut squash cappuccino if
it’s still available. Gadsby laces it with sharp, fresh ginger, and serves
it in an espresso cup, topped with an almondflavored foam stud
ded with crunchy bits of
hazelnut, or “almond cloud
and toasted hazelnut veil”
in the jargon of the menu.
 Tasmanian salmon, roasted in the oven, arrives meltingly rare,
and the citrusy segments of orange and grapefruit provide pleasing
contrast to the almost sweet flesh of the fish. Gadsby, who doesn’t
eat meat, nonetheless seduces deep and dark flavors from his
pairing of filet of beef and braised short ribs, and the roasted root
vegetables add a further touch of earthiness to the comforting dish.
I didn’t have room for the cheese course (available with
three or five selections), but you shouldn’t make the same mistake.
If the cheeses are of the same quality as the other ingredients,
they’re well worth ordering. I know I’ll return soon to
sample them along with more of Gadsby’s evolving menu. And
next time, I’ll sit outside, on the patio overlooking Water
Plaza, which is home to some of the city’s finest concerts
through the summer and beyond.
Noé
251 S. Olive Street, Downtown Los Angeles
— Chris Rubin
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